Alpine Gear Review by Tim Mosedale
as featured in On The Edge magazine
Off to the alps this summer? Whether your sights are on the Midi Plan
Traverse, the Frendo or the Walker Spur then you need to check out some
of the new kit thats around. Your sack could be lighter than ever
but it may be at a price.
Crampons
Mountain Technology 12 Point Crampons £74.99 (incl. cordura
bag)
Available as a Step In, Strap On or Combination crampon they are really
easy to adjust with the pin being protected within the adjustment housing
and look like they will be excellent out in the white stuff. The heel
clip riser needs a Phillips screw driver and they could do with a release
tag on the buckles, but apart from that they look like a good buy.
Anti ball plates £18.80
DMM Aiguille Crampons £79.99
DMM do it again! These crampons are the biz but they need a tool
for the heel clip riser. I know its only a 5 ml Allen Key but what
if you forget it and you have your other boots on? Apart from
that they perform exceptionally well, are light and compact.
Anti ball plates £19.99
Black Diamond Contact Strap Crampon 770gms (L) £69.95
Also available as a clip version at 860gms (L) £79.95
Another excellent product from BD. The front bail and adjustable rear
bail (spanner and screwdriver required) on the Strap version will accommodate
virtually any boot from an approach shoe to a snowboarding boot. The points
are absolutely razor sharp and gave an immediate feeling of security and
the flat profile reduced the risk of them balling up. Two sizes.
Anti ball plates available £19.99
Ice Tools
Mountain Technology Vertige Alpinist Ice Axe
straight shaft £89.99, bent shaft £99.99
Another great piece of kit from those guys in Glencoe. It has a modular
head so you can change worn out picks or swap to a banana pick if you
intend something a little bit more serious, and there are two choices
of adze. Its available as a straight or a cranked shaft but the
crank seems to be so slight that I wonder if Id want to pay the
extra money. The teeth on the classic pick are great and Im glad
to see that those on the banana pick have been greatly improved but they
could still go a step further. Comes with their technical leash.
Mountain Technology Vertige Xtreme 700 Ice Axe £114.99
This is a now a really good axe to be on the look out for featuring a
modular head, gently curved shaft, a knuckle guard/finger rest at the
spike and a new, much improved, pick. It is light in weight, very nicely
balanced and performs superbly. Comes with their technical leash.
Troll Hawk Axe 50-65cms £59.99 incl. leash
This is a great new addition from Troll, feels nicely weighted and will
be a great hit for those who want an axe for walking, mountaineering,
cutting steps and to occasionally get them out of the kaka. Its
a brilliant all round alpine axe that is nicely finished, has a reasonably
aggressive pick with excellent sharp teeth and is technical enough to
be on grade 4 terrain
Ice Screws
DMM Revolution Ice Screws £30.99 to £37.99 for 10, 13,
17 or 22cm.
Finally these screws are available but they have been well worth the wait.
They have a slim vertically aligned hanger which makes them very easy
to get started, with a small knobble on, which sits very nicely in the
palm of the hand making them a cinch to wind in almost as easy
as the handled models. They have really aggressive sharp teeth and a super
smooth finish making for effortless screwing.
Harnesses
Troll Alpinist Harness 385gms £29.99
This is a brilliant harness. Its super light with
four gear loops towards the front of the harness where you need them and
one at the back. Very easy to put on with one large easy to thread buckle
and two plastic buckles to keep the leg loops in place (although the webbing
can then get in the way and you may want to trim them down a tad). Top
notch at a superb price.
Clothing
Berghaus Fury Smock 370gms £70 S to XXL.
The Berghaus hybrid garment that wicks moisture, is windproof, light and
compact. Designed to allow you to perform without the need to constantly
adjust your layering it is very versatile, functional, has a nice deep
chest pocket that the garment can be packed in to (with a carrying loop)
and is an excellent universal piece of kit.
Berghaus Accelerator Pants 490gms £150 XS to XXL.
These are in XCR Stretch Gore-Tex, are cut to be fairly trim and therefore
light in weight and feature extra long water resistant zippers for ease
of putting on with top sliders to allow for venting. They are comfortable
enough to be worn against the skin and are great for ski touring although
are maybe a little heavy for summer alpinism.
Berghaus Yukon £40 S to XXL or 8 to 16.
Available as a hood, half zip, full zip
or gilet this is a very light minimalist microfleece garment that is comfy,
light, compact and at a great price.
Mammut Ultimate Jacket 490gms £120 XS to XXL.
A superb, light windproof fleece that features enormously long ventilation
zips, zipped napoleon pocket and thumb openings on the cuffs. A really
nice piece of kit. Available in any colour as long as its black.
Mountain Hardwear Tempest SL Jacket 410gms £120 S to XL or 8
to 16.
This is a brilliant, light, hooded top with hip pockets and pit zips that
packs away into its own Napoleon pocket. Its got a very wicky lining
and the nylon ripstop outer features their Conduit membrane and a DWR
finish. The material is actually waterproof but the seams arent
taped so its rated as highly water resistant. The garment can be
worn against the skin, as an outer or as part of a layering system. Its
a tad expensive but worth the money for its versatility.
Sprayway Paclite Jacket 500gms £200 S to XL.
This is an excellent lightweight and functional Gore-tex jacket for those
times when you need the benefits of a waterproof without the excess weight
and bulk that usually comes with this degree of breathability. Its
got big cuffs to get over your gloves, water resistant zippers on the
deep chest pockets, a huge map pocket and a great hood. Definitely one
to be on the lookout for.
Patagonia Puffball £70 XS to XXL.
For instant warmth this is an over-the-head sleeveless body warmer with
a collar that packs into its own Napoleon pocket and is the business.
Ideal as a belay or bivvy jacket. The zipper opens up instead of down
so everything immediately falls out of the pocket and it would benefit
from a loop for you to hang it from a krab but apart from that
its a good bit of kit.
Patagonia Integral Jacket £100 S to XL.
A very nice bit of kit that is a base layer and a shell all in one. Its
light, breathable, windproof and quick drying. The double zipped pockets
provide excellent ventilation but would benefit from slightly shorter
zippers to stop pocket contents falling out.
Patagonia R1 Pullover £65 S to XL
A thermal top that is packed with features and is light in weight but
warm. Its got a deep front zip which is slightly offset to prevent
chinny zip rash, stretch panels at the side and cuff, a chest pocket and
a high/low grid pattern on the inside which allows for increased airflow
and breathability (but also makes your skin look like a waffle when you
take it off). Very trendy everyone is wearing them out in the alps
this year.
Patagonia R2 Jacket £85 XS to L (Ladies cut available).
This is a really nice fleece with very stylish looks and a great cut.
Its very warm for its weight and almost looks too nice to use in
anger but at least youll look the part in the boulevards.
Patagonia Dragonfly Pullover 85gms!! £120 XS to XL
An amazingly light hooded windproof that packs down to the size of two
choccy bars and weighs in at only 85gms (thats three bags of crisps)!
It isnt the most aesthetically pleasing jacket to look at but it
is functional and thats what counts. The hood rolls down into a
neck collar and the whole thing packs in to its own pocket but it doesnt
have an attachment loop which it would benefit from. If you have the money
then go for it.
Mountain Hardwear Epic Jacket 317gms £90 S to XL or 8 to 16.
This is exceptionally light for a waterproof jacket and packs down to
not a lot. Its got a great hood, the chest pockets double as vents
but the laminated pocket on the outside is not deep enough and the small
things that you can fit in there will fall out every time you open it
up. Apart from that we found it to be an excellent functional garment
with no unnecessary frills.
Mammut Champ Pants £120 Available in 26 different sizes!
With a Cordura outer fabric and Coolmax inner these pants are rugged,
durable and very wicky. They have an excellent cut with a pre-shaped reinforced
knee and feature three zip pockets and zipped ankle fastenings. They look
typically mainland European but the sooner we catch up the better. They
are quite stretchy so they dont impede movement but youll
need braces if you intend loading the pockets up.
Marmot Cortina Guide Pants £89.99 XS to XXL.
Made from Schoeller fabric they have the look and feel of my old school
trousers. In use, however, they are great - being light, comfortable,
very quick drying and extremely durable. They are elasticated at the waist
and have a popper fastening and a superfluous Velcro strip but, at the
price, they could really do with an integral belt which would improve
them no end. Nice wide flat seems at the back so they dont rub under
the rucksack. They have zippers on all three pockets, which is cool, but
the third pocket would be far better on the backside rather than the thigh.
Marmot Vapour
Top Tank £29.99 Crew T-Shirt £32.50 S/Sleeve Zip £37.50
L/Sleeve Zip £44.99
A smelly helly that doesnt smell! These tops wick really efficiently,
have a deep front zipper for venting and feature an antibacterial treatment
so they dont get overwhelmed by your sweat. Brushed on the inside
this feels really soft against the skin and with the flat seams and no
labels is really comfortable in use. They can be washed and revitalised
quite effectively just in cold water. Get one.
Thaw Wicka 3/4 Sleeve Tee £35
Thaw are a new company to the outdoor clothing world and make items specifically
for women. Ladies, for the alps this summer check out their very stylish
coolmax top with mid length arms also available as a zipped Tee
at £39.95. Not only do these look great but weigh in at hardly anything
and do an excellent job of keeping you dry and comfortable. Lads, if you
are stuck for ideas for the fast approaching anniversary or birthday then
look no further.
Thaw Dura Pants £59.95 Sizes 6 to18.
These are a very hardwearing but light and quick drying pair of pants
that wont make your arse look saggy unless it already is.
The Cordura has an Intera treatment that wicks away any moisture and it
will keep you dry and warm in the cold, and cool when it is hot. Not the
most flattering of garments but they are durable and functional.
Boots
La Sportiva Trango Ice 1500gms £189.99 Sizes 37 to 47
La Sportiva do it again with their next generation of Trango boots. They
are extremely light, insulated, feature an abrasion resistant Keprotec
upper and are a really clean looking boot. The ankle features an elasticated
cuff to keep the snow out and to stop those laces getting caught up in
your crampons. There was excellent feedback and response due to the positive
fit and stiff sole. They would be a better boot if they had a lace locking
system at the top of the tongue (a la Nepal Top and Makalu), which would
allow a snug fit for the walk in and then you could crank them a little
tighter around the heel for your route. Apart from that they are superb.
(Big Stone)
Helmets
Petzl Elios Class (two sizes) and Elios Top (three sizes) 330gms (size
2). £29 and £39 respectively
The latest addition to the Petzl range of helmets featuring an easy to
adjust cradle. The polystyrene insert makes them a little warm and they
are not the most comfortable helmet ever but, maybe that was just our
heads. Apart from that a light helmet at a very affordable price. No excuses.
(Lyon Equipment).
Simond Bumper Helmet 350gms £49.99 with optional attachable
visor at £24.99 One size fits all.
A very light and extremely comfortable addition to the disposable range
of polystyrene helmets. Its quite a chunky helmet and wont
fit comfortably under all jacket hoods, has a couple of unsightly bolts
sticking out of the side (for the visor attachment) but in use youll
hardly remember that youve got it on. The headlamp loops could do
with a more pronounced ledge but it has a great fit and good volume adjustment.
(Mountain Works).
Gloves
Outdoor Designs Ultraflex gloves £70 S to XL
These are not the warmest gloves around but they are great for those times
when you need dexterity. They have a Gore-Tex insert, box construction
at the finger tips, spongy padding along the fingers and knuckles and
super grippy palms (you can use them to sign your PDQ slip when you pay
for them cos you aint gonna pay cash). I would change the
wrist loop for elastic straight away since we managed to rip the cord
loops off when removing the gloves. (Equip Outdoor Technologies Ltd).
Terra Nova Extremities Ice Gauntlets £64.95
Gore-Tex lined with an abrasion resistant palm. An excellent piece of
kit with a removable liner making them extremely versatile.
Terra Nova Extremities Ice Gloves £64.95
As above but fixed lining and shorter Velcro cuff (which snagged with
some, but not all, ice axe leashes).
Terra Nova Extremities Couloir Gloves £49.95
A really nice pair of Porelle lined gloves with a leather palm and excellent
dexterity. They are warm, durable and exceptionally good value.
Packs
Berghaus Extrem Slipstream (37L). 695gms complete 545gms stripped!
£55
Wow. This is an ultralight sack which, despite its incredibly low weight,
has a lot of features including wand pockets, 2L hydration bladder pocket,
chest strap, four compression straps, hip belt retainer and haul loops.
The back is only very slightly padded so you need to pack carefully to
avoid any discomfort. Possibly the lightest sack available for the size
and durability. Even comes with its own mesh stuff sac or can be packed
into the lid pocket!
Osprey Ceres 38 S/M/L 35/38/41L 1500gms £80
This is another great sack from the Osprey range that carries really well.
The mass of straps and buckles that comprises their Straightjacket
compression system comes in to its own when you want to climb with a partially
filled sac on as it keeps the remaining load tight and stable against
your back. The flap of extra material around the draw closure will not
stop the sack filling up with spindrift in our Scottish conditions so
its not as versatile as some of the other sacks, the buckles on
the ski straps close the wrong way and the shoulder straps absorb water.
Apart from that its bombproof, its got a hydration pocket,
shovel pocket, extra webbing on the outside and certainly deserves some
attention.
Mammut Granit Guide Roller 30/40L 1450/1550gms £99
Another fantastic sack. This one features a roll top, similar in design
to dry bags, which makes it very versatile for loading up to the gunnels
and is great for sticking your legs in on your bivvy. It has a poor top
pocket, superfluous ice axe sleeves and it would be better with just one
wide elastic webbing rather than two narrow ones but it does feature a
really handy guide book sized pocket at the top of the back, a removable
hip belt and feels absolutely indestructible. It is a super sack to be
on the lookout for.
Petzl Tikka 70gms (incl batteries) £24.99
The LED that set the standard for others to follow and its still
going strong. It weighs less than a square battery and fits in your pocket.
The headset can also be fitted onto the zoom headband if you want a totally
reliable and versatile lighting system. The Zipka (64gms incl batteries)
£29.99 features a Dyneema spring loaded headband which
doesnt dig into your head as you might expect when you see it. If
youve got long hair then you need to be careful taking it off and
it can move around a tad on your helmet. (Lyon Equipment)
Camping
MSR Titanium Pan Set £69.99 274gms
When every gram counts and you are considering whether to take six wires
or five, and the small gas cartridge instead of the medium, then theres
no alternative to a titanium cookset its 45% lighter than
steel, stronger than aluminium, corrosion resistant and wont give
you Alzheimers. The Titan is an ultralight cookset for those times
when speed and weight are paramount. It comes with two pots (0.7 and 1
litre), a lid-cum-frying pan, their LiteLifter pot gripper and the whole
lot packs in to itself. For extra weight saving you could even leave one
of the pots behind. All major credit cards accepted. (First Ascent)
MSR Pocket Rocket £29.99 86gms
Again, if weight is the issue then this is the stove for you. It requires
no priming, pressurizing or maintenance, is super light and super fast
and features a neat little adjuster for flame control. As with any stove
that sits on top of a gas canister it can be a little unstable and some
degree of care is required. Also with the small diameter head if you turn
it up fully you can burn the food at the bottom of the pan before the
rest has had time to start cooking. Having said that you can boil a litre
of water in under three minutes which is well impressive. It even features
a tri-sectional windshield for the flame. Brilliant. (First Ascent)
Mountain Hardwear Trango 2 tent £350 3.74Kg.
Used in Nepal for two months this is a fantastic tent. Its got locking
pole tips and a clip system (rather than sleeves) that makes it easy enough
for one person to erect and gives great ventilation. There are internal
pockets galore, windows, and plenty of room for two (four Sherpas shared
one at Island Peak High Camp!). Its got an easy tensioning system
that gives it a really bombproof feel. Id prefer to have the mozzy
net on the outside of the inner tent door which would make it a more versatile
venting system but apart from that its a great piece of kit.
Ajungilak Kompakt Spring 1120/1170gms for 180/195 cm zip £90
An excellent synthetic bag that gives extreme comfort and warmth for its
weight and volume. Using their MLT Performance nylon ripstop for the outer
and their softer, breathable and lighter MLT Comfort for the inner this
bag is really comfortable but also robust enough to stand the test on
bivvy ledges. It comes with a compression sack and is a superb price for
what you are getting.
Camp Formica Bag 850gms £54.99!
This bag has nothing to do with 1970s kitchen surfaces - Formica
is Italian for ant. It utilises two layers of PrimaLoft
a synthetic microfibre that was developed for the US army to rival the
performance of Down without losing its thermal properties if it gets wet
and features nylon ripstop for the inner and outer and is a little
coarse against the skin. It could do with a double zipper, which should
be longer and heavier duty, but apart from that the price tag makes this
a very attractive option. (Allcord.)
Rab Quantum Sleeping bag range.
A range of four ultralight bags that weigh in from 400 to 950gms for +2
to -12 from £120 to £280
They have a 750+ fillpower down for the warmth and an ultralight Pertex
Quantum fabric for the weight saving. The Q200 is minimalistic in every
way having no neck baffle or zipper whilst the Q400 and Q600 are also
available with the Rab Endurance outer for an extra £15. Also available
is the Top Bag which, as the name implies, is only filled on top and should
be used in conjunction with a sleeping mat of some sort. These bags give
a lot of warmth for their weight and the Q200 that was tested packs down
to a 7 by 6 tube if you really go for it.
Bits and Pieces
Suunto Observer from £219.95 for Stainless steel to £319.95
for all Titanium.
The latest in wrist top computers that are sleek and stylish. They have
an easy to read display, an excellent backlight and you can use them with
your gloves on. The features include altimeter with alarm, logbook with
3,800 measurements, barometer with four day memory, electronic compass,
automatic battery stand-by and all the time features that you would expect
when youre forking out over 200 quid. But at least youll look
the part.
Simond Aerofrein Via Ferrata Kit £69.99
When you are looking at a potential fall factor of six or seven then a
properly designed via ferrata kit is a must rather than just a couple
of good old slings and krabs. This kit has a hefty price tag but thats
mostly attributed to the ace autolocking krabs (£25 each!) but they
are the easiest ones of the lot to use. Slippage is provided through a
nifty holed plate and the excess cord comes in a little pouch so it wont
get hung up or in the way. (Mountain Works)
Beal Iceline 8.1mm 42gms/m £85
Its been around for a while and if you havent got one then
you are carrying excess weight.
Dry treated and available as a 50 or 60 (£100) metre rope these
have excellent handling and wont take up much room in your sack.
Be careful to use a belay plate designed for skinny rope cos they
can be a bit slick. (Lyon Equipment)
Petzl Reverso 81gms £14.99
Another that has been around for quite a few months but are you aware
of just how versatile it is? Its got two settings for belaying and
abseiling so you can take into account factors such as your partners
weight, rope diameter and rope properties such as stiffness and handling
etc. You can set it up on a direct belay and use it in auto locking mode
to bring up one or two seconds (magic plate style) and you can, in extremis,
use it as part of a rope ascending system. For its weight its probably
the most versatile belay device that there is. I love it. (Lyon Equipment)
Leatherman Pulse £69.95
This is the latest in the Leatherman range and is a new and improved version
of the popular PST II. Its got locking tools (which means that the
tool wont open up and snap shut on your finger when you are trying
to give it max with the screwdriver), an improved rounded handle for comfort
and grip and the scissors are better than ever. It also features a larger
attachment loop for your accessory cord and comes in its own leather pouch.
A nice bit of kit. (Whitby)
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